Stories

Come together

By Paul Nicholson

John and Vera providing food at bonfire night on the community garden

Community House

Sometime in April 1974 John and Vera Wood squatted an empty and seriously dilapidated house at 213 North Gower Street. They were a fair bit older than most of the squatters – in their forties – and over time took an informal role as Tolmers Village elders.

I have a recollection that there was a kind of Village meeting where they were introduced to the rest of us and explained their plans for what was to become known as Community House. But perhaps that is just a dream from those astral years.

Entrance to 213 North Gower Street, 1976
Statement of intent above the entrance of a squatted 213 North Gower Street

By October, when they featured in an article in the Sunday Telegraph on squatting and Tolmers, the house had been transformed.

The Telegraph, in its usual patrician manner, titled the article ‘Squatting a la mode de W.1’ and captioned the article’s photograph thus: ‘How the chic squat:- Vera Wood, squatter par excellence, spins a little wool in her contemporary Euston sitting room’ which, it is stated later, ‘would do no discredit to the pages of Harpers and Queen.’

The article, which continues in this vein of condescending estate agent/Sunday paper property page speak, conveys the feeling of being bemused/amused that ‘Squatting – which used, in London, to be an essentially working-class pursuit carried on in the remoter reaches of the city – has gone quite middle class and is lapping at the shores of W.1.’

There is little doubt that John and Vera would not have taken kindly to the tone of the article and would have felt that the Telegraph writer had completely missed the point of what they were doing.

It is true that the house at 213 had been immaculately rehabilitated (as a result of their own manual labour) and gave off a kind of warm glow – sanded floorboards, light coloured walls furnished with a sparse Shaker aesthetic with overtones of India and the East – breath of the Brahmaputra. But these were really only the outward signs of their intentions and beliefs.

In February 1975, an article in the Times, titled ‘Selfless sufficiency comes to Bloomsbury’, gave a much more accurate picture of their venture ‘to try alternative life-styles which may be of use to society in finding a way out of its anxiety and alienation’.

The front door was indeed ‘open all day’ and people ‘constantly in and out’.

Front room at the community house, 1976
Gathering at community house
Food store and shop at the Community House
Wholefood shop
Community Foods price list, 1976
The blackboard price list

On the ground floor at the front there was what would now be called a small wholefood shop where you could find wheat, oats, home made muesli, wholemeal bread, beans, dried fruit and honey. All at cost – about two thirds of shop prices. A far cry from the pages of Harpers and Queen. At the back there was a workshop with John and Vera’s tools available for use by anyone.

Workshop which members of the community were welcome to use.

In the rear of the basement a wood store of usable timber collected from skips – cleaned and de-nailed – ‘people who collect it give it; people who want it take it’.

And at the front of the basement the village bakery, where every day wheat was hand ground into flour and perhaps 20-30 loaves of very solid wholemeal bread was baked.

At some point, Ches, Tim and I decided that we would take it in turns to do an early shift in the bakery grinding flour.

Bakery

A hallway with white walls, ochre paintwork and sanded floorboards. Sunlight and mung beans, baskets of pulses and grains ranged in ordered tiers. In the sparse basement the flour grinder sits on a worktop, clamped to the wooden boards, the green painted cast wheel with its hanging arm and handle patiently waiting for the wheat.

Bakery and kitchen at Community House, 213 North Gower Street, 1975
John Wood in the basement bakery
Vera Wood making bread in the basement bakery

When you arrived in the dawn, John was long awake and preparing for the bread making, the big mixing bowls ready for the gritty tang of the flour. You would scoop the golden grains into the hopper, grasp the wooden handle and begin to turn. Slowly at first, feeling the resistance of the husks against the mill, then faster until the arm muscles warmed up. Trying to catch a rhythm, as the aching set in and the breath grew shorter. The hard kernels transformed by the turning of the wheel into soft dunes of flour rising slowly in the ochre stoneware bowl.

By the time the first bowl was full the heady smell of yeast filled the bakery and John would come by fussing, anxious to begin mixing the dough. As the grinding continued the flour, yeast, salt and water were blended into a great elastic mound with a large wooden spoon. On and on you turned the bakery prayer wheel, a Vedic manna pouring from the mill’s spout.

When it was over John brought breakfast: a bowl of rich muesli, oatflakes and seeds, peppered with nuts, dried fruit swimming in creamy milk. Shoulders aching, you would sit on the floor, struggling to lift the spoon to your mouth while he squatted, his back to the wall, rolling a cigarette. Sometimes you’d stay on to help with the kneading, rolling the soft dappled dough over the bench, squeezing, punching, turning and folding it over as the ovens warmed.

Then back up the stairs, soft plumes of incense, nag champa – sandalwood and frangipani – rolling down from the upper floors, past the cats basking in the doorstep sun out into North Gower Street.

At the crossroads the Crown and Anchor and the TGWU building stare blankly at one another and turning left, the Halal shops are setting up stall for another day.

Field oven (or Ghost in the machine)

Illustration of the intended stove from ‘Energy Primer: Solar, water, wind and biofuels’

It was unusually cold at the beginning of June 1975 – there were frosts and even snow across much of the UK. The weather suddenly changed on June 4, with temperatures in the high 20s, until June 14. Rain and cold weather followed until June 20 when the mercury hit the high 20s again.

In the sweltering days before the second Tolmers carnival on 28 June 1975, an unexpected form gradually takes shape in the communal garden in Drummond Street.

Ches and Tim are constructing a field oven from an old oil barrel and reclaimed angle iron.

John passes by at intervals to inspect progress and perhaps make a suggestion or two – for the oven is being made for him to bake bread in the Square on the day of carnival.

Hacksaws and drills, nuts and bolts, spanners and hammers. Sweat and curses.

A metal hand nibbler borrowed from Alex (who has form working with oil barrels as the home made wind generator on the roof of Euston Street attests) to painstakingly cut the door in the end of the barrel.

There is no internet, or YouTube video, to guide the would be constructor – only something perhaps in the Whole Earth catalogue. Work progresses through improvisation, trial and error, discussion and argument.

Finally, at the end of the long hot days, something resembling a steel sculpture of a four legged animal stands on the dry parched grass.

The oven needs to be tested before the carnival and Ches and Tim decide to roast a chicken inside; a celebratory meal after days of hard graft.

The next morning John comes to see the final article – he opens the door …

When he learns that a chicken has been cooked in the oven he is horrified and says he cannot use it to bake bread, explaining to its baffled makers that the spirit of the chicken remains inside. He walks back along Drummond Street to the bakery in North Gower Street.

The oven-animal remains in the garden for a while before being dismantled and discarded.

Or perhaps it disappears mysteriously on one of those summer nights …

Could this October 1975 photo show remnants of the rejected stove discarded in the community garden.
Grow together mural in the community garden.

See all  photos of 213 North Gower Street 

See Community House Collection

See Times article ‘Selfless sufficiency comes to Bloomsbury’ by Michael Baily

See Where are they now profile for John Wood

See Where are they now profile for Vera Wood

News

Reunion party and website launch

A spectacular Tolmers reunion party took place on 5 November 2025 and attracted nearly 50 people. Most had been squatting in Tolmers Square and surrounding streets at some stage between 1973 and 1979 or had visited friends there and attended the many carnivals held at that time. Six others joined by Zoom. 

The event was hosted by Patrick Allen in the basement bar of law firm Hodge Jones & Allen at 180 North Gower Street, opposite the entrance to Tolmers Square. This firm was founded by Patrick when he was a squatter in Tolmers square in 1977. He has just retired from the practice after leading it for 48 years.

Many of the guests had not seen each other for nearly fifty years. They included Rod Smith, who left Tolmers Square in 1976. He travelled from his home in Nova Scotia to attend the party. Pedro George flew in from Lisbon.

Several former squatters made speeches, led by Patrick who welcomed the guests with his reflections on life in Tolmers in the 1970s. He introduced the Tolmers website which he said was growing in content all the time with stories, photos and press cuttings being added.  He said he would continue to manage and fund the website and was planning more publications and an annual reunion party.

There was a delicious buffet supper supplied by Drummond Villa restaurant of Drummond Street.

A slide show with 445 of the photographs from the website was shown continuously during the evening on three screens around the room. It can be viewed here.  

Books published on Tolmers were on sale at a merchandise table.   

Video recordings of some highlights from the speeches, zoom and musical interludes will be available shortly.

Here are some photos of the event taken by Fred Bellec. More can be viewed here.

Left to right: Colin Ferguson, Sacha Craddock, Pedro George, Rod Smith, Nick Wates, Jamie Gough, Corinne Pearlman, Patrick Allen.


Suzy Nelson, Frances Holliss, Paul Nicholson. Patrick Allen is speaking at a 1975 public meeting on the screen behind.
Patrick Allen welcomes guests and celebrates the reunion and the launch of this website in front of a Tolmers inhabitant in 1974.
Simon Howard, Sacha Craddock, Dave Taylor, Anne Karpf, Dervilla Carroll, Meg Rosoff in front row. Jason Katz, Nick Wates, Alex Smith, Oscar Gregan glimpsed behind.
Nick Wates speaking, Jamie Gough seated and the Tolmers Square 1975 greening mural on the screen.
Buffet supper with Rod Smith, Alex Smith, Dave Taylor, Chris Mahoney, Nick Weekes.
Merchandise table with Jason Katz, Mae Dewsbery, Diana Foster

More photos of the event can be viewed here.

News

Wassailing in Kings Cross

A handful of intrepid former Tolmers folk accepted Alex Smith’s invitation to a wassailing party on 23 February 2024 at Alara’s premises behind Kings Cross station. Here are a few photographs:

A bonfire of pallets in the yard helped guests feel at home (and warm)
Muesli seems to keep Alex looking young
Corinne wassailing in amongst the 200 fruit trees, now several years old.
An urban grotto
Corinne in awe at Alara’s warehouse, remembering the muesli maker’s humble beginnings in Tolmers Square squats.
Nick, Moyra, Sacha and Alex celebrate an enjoyable reunion (photo by Corinne).
News

Urban greening recognition

Tolmers is recognised as a pioneer in urban greening in a marvellous exhibition at the British Library in London, ‘Unearthed: the power of gardening‘. Several photos from this website are displayed.

Tolmers photos and book from the 1970s being viewed at the British Library in 2025.

In an accompanying book, curator Valentina Mirabella writes: ’The occupation of Tolmers Square in London in the 1970s was a pivotal moment in the history of urban resistance, demonstrating the potential of communal gardens to serve as symbols of social conscience and community resilience.…The legacy of Tolmers Square serves as a reminder of the power of community action and the importance of green spaces in urban environments (Gardens of the future: unique visions for a changing world, Ruth Chivers ed, British Library, 2025, pp140-41).


At the time, young guerrilla gardeners in Tolmers thought they were doing something important but its good to have confirmation by an expert from a younger generation half a century later.

Curator Valentina Mirabella in front of an actual size photo of the 1974 slogan on vacant land in Drummond Street.
Stories

Nine in a bed?

By Moyra Ashford

Moyra (centre) running a crafts stall in a squatted bank, 1974

Looking at these 50-year-old photos, it’s crystal clear that all those elegant, characterful old houses should have been restored and preserved. Tolmers today is a very poor substitute. 

I eventually got a council house but only because I had a child. Today’s tickets to affordable housing are old age, disability or children, with thousands of council bureaucrats weighing up competing needs – what a waste of human potential. Squatters repaired houses, sold food, organised community events and meeting our own needs was satisfying. Please could someone design a model for young people to access affordable housing in exchange for house restoration. 

I don’t remember precisely how I came to Tolmers – probably by knocking at 12 Tolmers Square or 102 Drummond Street (The Dairy). I was 23, flat-sharing in north London and always broke after paying rent.  

An empty commercial building at 142 Drummond Street was being squatted and I moved in with a couple of suitcases, the first – and only – resident.  As soon as it rained, cascades of water streamed down. I moved my bed to the only dry spot on the first floor. Luckily, a few days later news came of a new squat – 58-66 Euston Street, starting with number 64. 

Moyra standing at the doorway of her new squat in Euston Street.

The windows had been breeze-blocked up, but the window frames and glazing were inside and intact. The two windows in the living room on the first floor also had their original wooden shutters. Every room had a simple fireplace. Although small, the houses had lovely proportions. 

Alex Smith writes that nine of us slept in the same bed (see Rebirth through fire). Was it really that many? It wasn’t as cramped as he implies – the bed was several mattresses laid together in the top front room. Numbers varied nightly as people made the adjoining houses habitable. I stayed at no. 64 with Ruth Ingham and Taddeo, a calm monk whose order had told him to live in the outside world for a year. 

I painted the kitchen in gloss white and pale yellow, but it didn’t look right. Ruth, always blunt, said, ‘You’re trying to make it look clean but these colours don’t work in an old house.’ We mixed in some dark stains and in off-cream and muddy pink the kitchen looked much better. And counter-intuitively, just as bright. Ruth could have designed all today’s historic paint ranges. 

Soon after, Ruth got together with Alex and moved next door; Suzy and Frances lived in one house; Ruth Milburn moved into 70 and the house in worst repair, 68, became a workshop. Then Debby, Al and Oli came over from 6 Tolmers Square. 

Alex put in a ring main for electricity and I took responsibility for the bills. We never got running water, so had to fetch it in containers from a tap at the petrol station on the corner. One day the tap disappeared. After that we filled up at the Dairy. 

Once, queuing for a bath at the Dairy, Peg Leg Pete (see Room at the top) was complaining about his hair, so I shampoo-ed it for him. Pete was happy but someone said,  ‘You really are a cleanness freak’. 

I had a day job as a secretary, then researcher, at the Sunday Times Magazine, which was walking distance away. On the seventh and last floor was the Editor’s Suite that the paper’s then-editor, Harold Evans, the anti-Thalidomide campaigner, never used. I discovered it had a substantial bathroom and started bringing my laundry in to wash in the bath after work. 

Moyra was a researcher at the Sunday Times

One evening, the suite was no longer empty: a  silver-haired gent, the lawyer who checked final copy, was working away at the large desk. He seemed tickled by the bathroom-laundry and never reported me.  

Reading the stories on this website, I’m struck by how much I missed – I never heard Jamie Gough sing ‘All Shook Up’, nor realised how many musicians lived nearby. But I wonder if any Villagers glossed over their bad experiences … mine came from the insecurity. So many people passed through the Euston Street houses, including Scottish Mick who left with my cassette player. After that I hid my 35 mm camera, but one day that also walked. 

The drains in the Euston Street houses were all linked and once developed a terrible blockage. I got home from work to see Frank, an older resident, in Wellington boots wading through the stinky waters wielding a heavy pole. As he lived on another street, it seemed like exceptional community spirit. It wasn’t pure altruism: soon after that Frank and Debby separated from their partners and set up home together.

 In 1975, Frank helped me out of a bind. I was struggling with my first freelance assignment, an interview with Bob Marley. The editor had rejected my first draft for being too reverential. Frank, who wasn’t in awe of anyone, patiently worked through it, asking questions until he’d talked me into the right mental space. 

The Tolmers Village Association (TVA) sometimes sent people round looking for temporary accommodation. A young Irish couple stayed for a month – they’d eloped and needed 3 weeks residence to marry. A mother in recovery stayed several weeks on route to getting rehoused. She had two children at primary school, both cheerful, cheeky and seemingly unscathed by the drug years. They’d just had a stroke of luck – she’d found a large stash of old notes up the chimney in her previous squat.

There was one packed TVA meeting when two Irish solicitors got up to explain that they’d come from Dublin to learn about Tolmers’ difficulties as they were about to launch their own battle and wanted to pre-empt the obstacles. In retrospect, Camden Council seems pretty spineless.

Moyra (centre with headscarf) at a packed public meeting with local MP Frank Dobson and Camden Councillor John Mills, 26 November, 1974

We heated 64 Euston Street with a coal fire in the living room. Delivery was every Thursday. Before going to work, I’d put the back door on the latch and leave money next to the hearth. The delivery man came in through one of the other houses (we’d knocked down the dividing walls between the back yards), carried the coal across the yard and then up the stairs to empty the sack straight into a huge Chinese earthenware pot, which we’d got from outside one of the Drummond Street shops – they were the containers that Chinese eggs were imported in. 

If anyone ever writes ‘Tolmers, the musical’, it should include the coalman scene:  a friend was having an affair with a journalist at work and I loaned her my keys so they could meet at no. 64 during the lunch hour. When they heard the heavy steps coming up the stairs, they were both naked and had just enough time to hide behind the sofa. They heard the coal clattering into the pot, then the steps retreating. They’d just emerged when the sitting room door burst open again. ‘Scuse me’, said the sooty coalman, clomping across to pick up the money he’d forgotten. 

Great photo taken my Moyra of the Tolmers squatters march to the High Court drawn up beside a bus at traffic lights.

My mother was a nurse, and while expecting me cared for someone in the Croom-Johnson family. David Croom-Johnson and his wife were my godparents. At the Tolmers High Court trial (see The Legal Battle), we waited in line, then went up one by one up to a mahogany table where Croom-Johnson sat in his robes. I don’t think we knew beforehand who the judge would be. Or I didn’t know. Or I did, but kept quiet …memory fails. Anyway, he asked his questions, but neither of us acknowledged the relationship. For a long time, I felt guilty and cowardly for keeping quiet – would they have thrown the case out if I’d shouted, ‘Uncle David, godfather!’? It wasn’t until later that I learnt the case was thrown out anyway.

Squatting enabled me to save for my belated gap year – £2 a week in an Abbey National Build Up Share Account. Perhaps it was Tolmers magic, for no sooner had I decided on Brazil as my destination than two Brazilians moved into Tolmers, one a young artist; the other, Sonia, Pedro’s partner. I still remember the important phrase she taught me in her  Portuguese lessons: ‘Me da uma avelã’ – ‘Give me a hazelnut’. 

ENDS

Stories

Wait until the head teacher sees this

By Oscar Gregan

As told to Patrick Allen

I was born and raised in Cork, Ireland. After finishing my engineering degree there in summer 1969, I moved permanently to London but did not reach Tolmers Square until the winter of 1975/76.

Oscar in No 12 Tolmers Square, 1977

Tolmers via Lexham Gardens, Elgin Avenue and Canfield Gardens

 I first stayed in Lexham Gardens, Earls Court. Two adjacent mid-Victorian townhouses had been converted into a warren of bedsitters. Many friends of mine from Cork were already living there, a few of whom (Donal, Seamus and Dervilla) later lived in Tolmers Square in the late 1970s. A book could be written about the Lexham Gardens days.1 The caretaker landlady, Olga Solski, had featured in a News of the World article about the house, prominent photo and all. Many of the Cork people living there were thankful that the paper was not available in Ireland at that time!

I had been very involved in left-wing politics during my later years in university. So when I came to London I joined various political groups that campaigned (i) for Civil Rights in Northern Ireland; (ii) against internment of political activists; and (iii) for the withdrawal of British troops from Northern Ireland. I soon got to know Gerry Lawless3, a famous but controversial character who was very active in London Irish émigré politics in the 1960s and 1970s. He later became a Labour Party councillor in Hackney. Gery encouraged me to join a political group and not just confine my involvement in politics to single-issue campaigns. I joined the International Marxist Group (the IMG) in summer 1970 since I was impressed with the Group’s analysis of Irish politics2

For some reason that I can’t remember, the need to pay rent in Lexham Gardens evaporated a short time after I moved in.  Eventually the landlord’s agent, a Dub called Mervin, emptied the building by summer 1972 using bribery, blackmail and other means. I had got to know Piers Corbyn (Yes! Jeremy’s brother) who was also in the IMG at the time. Piers, then a physics postgraduate student at Imperial College, was opening a squat in Elgin Avenue (at the Harrow Road end) and offered me a room there4. Many of the Lexham Gardens people subsequently came to the Elgin Avenue squat. 

My stay at Elgin Avenue lasted until early 1974. Fiona, my new girlfriend, who was also in the IMG, had been offered a room in a more salubrious squat in Canfield Gardens, behind Waitrose in Swiss Cottage and we jumped at the chance of moving there. I had also started working in the IMG bookshop, then situated in the Caledonian Road. 

The IMG and Tolmers

A confession – I don’t remember when exactly I came to live in Tolmers Square. It was sometime in winter 1975 / spring 1976. I knew about the Tolmers Village community well before I came to live there. From the early days many IMG supporters were living in Tolmers Square. From memory – Peter and Halya Gowan, Patrick Camiller, Anna Klein, John and Jackie, and Yarko all lived on the South side, and there were other members and supporters in No 12 on the North side. IMG members participated in the various campaigns run by Tolmers residents but their politics had little appeal. The most influential person then in Tolmers politics was Alan Walter. The IMG was always full of rival factions or tendencies and the IMG people in Tolmers were members of the main opposition tendency. The basement of No 17 Tolmers Square, being both in Central London and near to major railway stations was a regular, semi-secret meeting place for this tendency. 

Peter Gowan5 (see New Left Review interview) was later to become Professor of International Relations at London Metropolitan University, and to become a member of the editorial committee of New Left Review and was one of the founders of the journal Labour Focus on Eastern Europe. He was then, in the early 1970s, involved in overseas ‘security work’ with IMG’s fraternal organisations in other countries. He was in touch with a Czech underground dissident group in London. The Czech people in London who were involved in this later became part of the post 1990 government.

The IMG would periodically provide a pair of drivers to drive vans across the Czech border, taking in books and papers hidden in false compartments, and bringing other things out. When living in Swiss Cottage I was asked by Peter to volunteer but had to decline as I did not even have a driving licence! My partner Fiona volunteered. It was arranged that she meet up with her co-driver, Doug Smith, in the IMG bookshop before leaving. I had not met Doug before then – he was a Tolmers Village squatter and then boyfriend of Sacha Craddock. The trip encountered some hitches with drop-offs but they safely crossed the border back into Austria. Fiona and I separated in autumn 1975. She left London sometime in the late 1980s. By chance we met up at the Irish Centre in Camden about 10 years ago. Reminiscing about old times I asked if she remembered Doug Smith from a trip to Czechoslovakia in the 1970s. “Yes!” She said, “Didn’t get on with him at all!” “He’s now my brother-in-law!” I explained. A description of these clandestine trips appears in the Peter Gowan New Left Review interview.

The first time I met Sacha

In the IMG I was in charge of what was called the Central Educational Group, a class that explained IMG’s politics to new members. Sacha was a health worker at University College Hospital. She joined the union National Union of Public Employees (NUPE) and became a convenor. She met people in the IMG, probably also Tolmers residents. She joined up and was invited to come along to my group for some induction. It wasn’t just about giving lectures. Being ahead of my time (!), I used role-play frequently in these meetings.  I pretended to be a kind of in-your-face member of another political grouping being very challenging at a union meeting. Sacha found this totally bewildering. Afterwards she was asked about the meeting and said it was terrible! She couldn’t deal with the organiser (me) at all and his very aggressive approach. Prominent IMG members Robin Blackburn and Peter Gowan went and complained to the London regional organiser and said: “Do something about these classes and the people who are running them (i.e. me), otherwise the organisation risks losing young working-class militants like Sacha Craddock”!

Becoming a lifelong Arsenal supporter 

The Villabella Restaurant at 187 North Gower Street did lovely traditional breakfasts and was popular with squatters. While having breakfast there with Sacha and Colin on a Saturday morning in late 1976, they wondered if I would like to come to see the Arsenal v Manchester United game that afternoon. At university I had a very keen interest in football but had let this wane in my early years in London. That was about to change. I witnessed a very entertaining 3 -1 Arsenal victory. I was especially impressed by the number of Irish players on the Arsenal team including the famous Liam Brady. I became a fan for life. I enjoyed going to the Boxing Day derbies often with Patrick Allen, Keith Kirby and Henry Hodge. I remember attending the disappointing 1978 Cup Final defeat to Ipswich and in the following year getting a spare Hodge, Jones and Allen ticket to the 1979 Cup Final win over Manchester United, a match long remembered for the finish with 3 goals in the last six minutes.

The pubs in Tolmers Village

The Lord Palmerston, very popular with the early Tolmers squatters, closed around the time that I came to live in No 16 Tolmers Square. I have dim memories of having a drink there on occasions and being struck by the vibrant atmosphere and the array of clothing styles. Another popular pub was the The Crown and Anchor on the corner of Drummond Street and North Gower Street. A wide range of people used to drink there: staff from The Leveller magazine, Euston Station and Simmonds furniture store all frequented the place. The pool table was very popular. Jeyant Patel, founder of the Diwana Bhel Poori House, was a regular and able pool player. Many of the Simmonds staff, Euston rail workers and Tolmers squatters were keen players. I got to know Ernie and Tony Wordsworth from Simmonds as they were lifelong Arsenal supporters. We travelled to many of the matches during the 1979 winning cup run – to Nottingham for an unexpected win against the famous Brian Clough team and to Birmingham for the semi-final win against Wolves. They were unable to get a Final ticket and they were quite envious when I acquired one from Patrick Allen! I occasionally had a quiet drink at the Jolly Gardiners (later the Bree Louise, now demolished by the HS2 works) where I often watched Match of the Day. A character, working there as a potman, was called Corky. Corky spent most of his evenings slumped in an alcoholic snooze. Occasionally in the evening he would rouse himself, cursing the extreme stress of the job, collect in a few glasses, wipe down a few tables and return to his slumbers. I annoyed him considerably one Saturday evening. Waiting for Match of the Day to start, I was watching the end of a Western on TV. Corky had just finished his arduous round of the tables when I knocked over a beer glass which broke on the floor! Swearing profusely Corky fetched a brush and dustpan and shouted: “I was just about to have a well earned break, when John Wayne shot the glass out of yer man’s hands!” The Exmouth Arms became the most popular pub with Tolmers squatters in the latter years of the 1970s. It was run with a firm hand by landlord ‘Big’ Con McGlynn and his brother-in-law Michael. Con kept his Merc with its personalised number plates ‘CON 500’ parked outside the pub! “Just to show you where your money is going, boys!” was a frequent quip of his. The Exmouth Arms was an informal meeting place of the London branch of the Liverpool FC supporters club. They used to book carriages on the train to all home Liverpool matches. I got to know them well and was invited to travel with them to the annual Liverpool v Arsenal match at Anfield provided I was prepared to watch the match from the Kop! I was pleased to avail of this offer right through the 1980s. In the 1970s / early 1980s the National Union of Miners (NUM) headquarters was based in Euston Road. Laurence Daly6 was its national secretary from 1968 to 1984 and a regular at the Exmouth. There was an apocryphal story told about Tolmers Village of a tabloid journalist who had infiltrated the squatting community looking for a scoop. The best the journalist could reveal was a report about a basement party where drugs were being smoked – WOW! The hack did not recognise Laurence Daly who was at the party. There were no claims that Laurence was smoking drugs but the mere report of him being at that type of party would have made national tabloid headlines in those days. There had been two major miners’ strikes in the early 1970s and an anti-NUM headline would easily have been fabricated by the tabloids. In later years Laurence developed ‘a drink problem’. He loved singing including Irish rebel songs. One evening he came into the Exmouth, well inebriated. On enquiring about Big Con (the Landlord), Laurence was told that Con was on holiday. Steadying himself against the counter, Laurence remarked: “Got to admire Big Con. He had a fierce problem with the drink once, you know but now does not touch a drop!” 

The Winter of discontent and the end of Tolmers


Sometime late 1975 early 1976 the Canfield gardens squat came to an end. John and Jackie in No 16 Tolmers Square arranged for me to move into a spare room there. 1977 was a very eventful year with many people from Tolmers participating in the major protests in support of the Grunwick strikers and against National Front marches. Locally the Tolmers initiated campaign, ‘Single People Need Homes Too’, was also gathering pace.

By Spring 1978, I felt it was time to get a substantial, long term job. A friend, a maths teacher who was in the IMG, alerted me to government schemes to train people as maths teachers at secondary school level. I applied for a place on one such course beginning in September 1978 at the North London Polytechnic. There was a special grant for the course, comparable to a first year teaching salary. I was accepted on the course. I also resigned from the bookshop and did bar work and flat cleaning which paid better than the bookshop! Gradually I distanced myself from IMG politics. The IMG was a very hermetic lifestyle especially if you were a full-timer like me – talking mainly to IMG people during the day, and later while socialising togther in the evenings. It was commonplace to have optimistic, unrealistic views on the potential for rapid change in popular political attitudes. Once outside the Group, their many analyses and political predictions began to appear as more and more unrealistic.   

Winter 1978 /1979 brought the ‘Winter of Discontent‘ characterised by widespread strikes by trade unions both from the private and public sector. Frequent heavy snowfalls brought the coldest winter in 16 years. This put the Tolmers Square infrastructure under severe stress – virtually testing it to destruction with many frozen and burst water pipes and damaged cables! 

The incapacity of the Labour government to cope with the ‘Winter of Discontent’ contributed to the election of the Tories under Margaret Thatcher on 3rdMay 1979. On 4thMay, early morning, the bailiffs arrived at Tolmers Square and evicted all the residents on the south side! While evictions were expected in the short term, it was a surprise when the bailiffs actually arrived.

Eviction of the south side of Tolmers Square, 4 May 1979

The centre of the square soon became chaotic – furniture and belongings dumped there; a growing crowd of people  – bailiffs; police; the press; onlookers; officials from the council trying to ensure that there were no children left homeless. Even the newly elected Labour MP for the area, Frank Dobson put in an appearance. Some of us had been offered rooms in the North side. As I was, by now, a good friend of Sacha, Corinne, Colin and Dave I was thankful to be offered a room in No. 12. 

I completed the course in North London Polytechnic in June and got a position as a maths teacher in Haverstock School, Chalk Farm, Camden starting in the beginning of September.

By the summer of 1979 the campaign ‘Single People Need Homes Too’ had had some success. Camden Council offered a number of hard-to-let flats to Tolmers residents during July/ August. Tolmers had its last summer carnival and last round of house parties also in July and August – we had prior information this time that the bailiffs would evict the residents from the North side on a Monday in late August. In the week before the eviction a reporter from The Observer came round. The reporter took a photo of a group of us on the balcony of No 11 & 12 and told us that they intended to have an item on Tolmers in the following Sunday’s edition. On Saturday night many of us were in the Exmouth Arms. Late in the evening, a couple whom we did not know came in with an early edition of The Observer which they acquired in nearby Euston station. I asked them for a quick read. I skimmed though the paper looking for the photo. I could not find it! I was just about to return the paper when I noticed the front page. There the photo was! It was stretching across the top of the front page just under the masthead!

The Observer front page, Sunday 26 August 1979. Oscar is on the far left

“Wait till your new head teacher sees this” quipped one of my friends. Some of the teachers at the school did see it but I needn’t have worried. It was amazing how many teachers relied on squatting at that time. Six of my new colleagues were squatting in a disused fire station in Hackney!

The Bailiffs dutifully arrived at the Square on Monday.

After leaving Tolmers Square I spent 3 months living with friends in Cricklewood.  Sacha, Jamie, Dave and Corinne moved from No 12 to Blashford, Adelaide Road, a 3-bedroom council flat. But it was obviously not suitable for them and when the lease of a house in Great Russell Street became available they moved there. Vince Hetreed and I moved to Blashford. That was very convenient for me as it was a 5-minute walk to Haverstock School.

Those happy days

I remember:

… the first time I was invited to Sacha’s parents’ house in Oxford, (St Frideswide’s Farmhouse) where I met her parents, John and Sally Craddock, who became very supportive friends of mine. After that I had the privilege of becoming a regular visitor. Sue (Doug’s sister) and I held our wedding reception there in 1997.

… the snowball fight in the Square on New Year’s night which was curtailed when Gerry Lawless began throwing flowerpots instead of snowballs from the balcony of No 12, damaging Patrick’s car in the process!

… the Sunday afternoon football and rounders matches in Regents Park!

… the many parties, dinners and singsongs around the piano in No 12 and the very enjoyable Elvis impersonations by Jamie. 

…. being regularly beaten at chess by both Dave Holden and Patrick Camiller.

… the many tasty breakfasts and leisurely chats in the Villabella Restaurant in North Gower Street. For many years afterwards, ex-Tolmers residents would meet up on Saturday mornings for these events.

However:

It would be very wrong of me to paint too idealistic, too utopian a picture of life in Tolmers Village. The residents were much more diverse than just young students or young professionals. Some lived on the edge of society – in one house there was a 12 year old cat burglar and his father!! There were people with big emotional and mental health problems. Allocation of rooms in houses was not always frictionless…..

Final words

Over 40 years on I still live in Camden with my wife Sue. Our 30-year old son, Alan now teaches in Camden. Sue and I met indirectly through Tolmers Square friends (by all accounts we had met in the 1970s at one of the Tolmers Hampstead Heath picnics but neither of us can remember it!). I am now a retired teacher but I still do A Level exam marking. It’s great to still have and regularly meet several good friends from the Tolmers days but sad to know about those who are now imithe ar slí na fírinne.7 

And finally a song – an Irish song of course! The Parting Glass:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eisW0skJ9fU

Notes

1A literary informed resident asserted that the house at Lexham Gardens resembled the Catacombs, a network of basement rooms in Dublin city centre and described in Anthony Cronin’s memoirs, Dead as Doornails. 

2 The IMG was one of the different varieties of Trotskyist groups (not quite 57!)  that existed in Britain at the time. Its best known member was Tariq Ali and the Group was associated with the journals Black Dwarf, Red Mole and, Red Weekly.
Many prominent IMG members were on the Editorial Board of New Left Review.   

3Gerry Lawless made international news in the 1950s when he took the Irish Government to court. Lawless v Ireland (1957–61) was the first international court case filed against a country. An electrician by trade, Gerry went into journalism in the late 1960s. He often wrote for Private Eye until becoming the London correspondent for the Irish newspaper,The Sunday World, in the mid 1970s.  

4 Piers started his many years of housing agitation and involvement in the London squatting movement while living in Elgin Avenue. He produced numerous regular duplicated bulletins and posters which regularly submerged his floor mattress! The room became a work of art, worthy of a Turner prize but alas a bit ahead of its time. After Elgin, Piers moved to a South London squat in Rust Square!

5 https://newleftreview.org/issues/ii59/articles/peter-gowan-the-ways-of-the-world

6  https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2009/may/30/obituary-lawrence-daly

7 Irish (Gaelic) speaking people seldom say simply that someone has died – “Fuair sé bás”. Instead they say “Tá sé imithe ar slí na fírinne”: He is gone in the way of truth, or he is walking on the road of truth. 

Stories

Pathways to the future

By Joe Ravetz

OR

From inner city experiment to city-region transformation: the unfinished business of co-governance

Geodesic dome created by Joe at Tolmers Carnival 1975 with architectural critic Professor Reyner Banham (in hat) and daughter Debby in foreground.

Experimental zones of East and West

Arriving directly from the Eastern mystic trail, Tolmers was a fantastic experimental zone – a unique vision and orientation, which helped me and many others to make sense and move forward. We tried out many things, by accident or design, which in later decades came under the new banner of ‘sustainability’ – local exchange trading, circular economy, urban ecosystems, etc.. If Tolmers was in some ways a kind of studio extension of University College London, then we should be well equipped for structural analysis of the situation (only later I realized whole sections of urban theory and debate were focused on such things).

Moving to the free state of mind

Illustration from Joe’s book Deeper-City

Escaping the front lines of eviction and fragmentation, I was in search of a place where the seeds of good ideas could grow. As part of the Calder Valley Free State (of mind), we aimed to build on the Tolmers experiments, outwards and upwards. Such experiments were not only material but about cultural empowerment, identity and reason for being. Part of this reflection was to say, ok, this was all great for (relatively) educated and mobile people in central London in the 1970s – how about the unemployed of peripheral Liverpool (1980s), or small town Midlands – or indeed the slums of Asia or Africa? If Tolmers was the seminal time and place as we thought at the time, it could well generate real insights for such challenges.

As to the significance of squatting –

With concepts such as  ‘autonomous cities’, the right to the city, the open city, social justice in the city, social ecology. In later years I began to work in different countries and appreciate some of the complexities and dilemmas of informality in Latin favelas or Indian slums.  For example, colleagues in Cartagena, Colombia had a problem with investing in flood defences for the squatter slums on the periphery – (“they are vagrants and thieves, here today gone tomorrow, why should we send money for them to steal??”). And colleagues in Kolkata, India, observe the autonomous self-organization of the slums and informal settlements, and the brutal reality of mafia gang power, sale of political votes, embedded state corruption, etc.. In the UK this all came to a head in 1980s Liverpool and the classic showdown between state socialism and anarchic co-operativism. Similar frontlines include confrontations with ‘travellers’, illegal raves, and more recently the experience of the lockdown which brought into focus the tension of state order versus self-organization. Setting up the Sustainable City-Region program (City-Region-2020-Integrated-Planning-for-a-Sustainable-Environment) we tried to square the circles but actually it took another decade or more of learning and insight on the human dimensions.   
 

Scrolling to the 2020s….

Illustration from Joe’s book Deeper-City

Much debate and ferment on ‘Urban Living Labs’ and similar zones of experimentation. Countless innovations in socio-eco-enterprise, net-zero value chains, sustainable food places, ‘well-being economy’ and ‘foundational economy’. The digital brings huge opportunities in all this, combined with new models of co-governance, circular economy, etc.. In my journey such opportunities can be framed as ‘Deeper city minds’ and the local collective intelligence – as in the book Deeper-City: Collective-Intelligence-and-the-Pathways-from-Smart-to-Wise. But the challenges are massive and growing – neo-liberal finance, post-truth power grabs, climate change, digital surveillance, to name a few. We are exploring this now in the global Collaboratorium / Laboratory of collective intelligence
 
And if we scrolled forward to the 2050s….

The ‘class of 1975’ is now mainly semi-retired with their book-lined studies. But I still ponder on how to realize these visions and ideas for the pathways to the future….

Stories

Afterlife

By Alison Ravetz

An edited version of an email to Nick Wates, 25 January 2021

It’s good to know that Tolmers has had and is still having a long and well deserved afterlife and I am proud to see a first edition of ‘The Battle for Tolmers Square’ sitting on my bookshelf. Though I didn’t contribute anything practical to it (apart from a son) Tolmers informed my thinking and teaching for many years, and indeed through Joe it became part of our family history.  

Alison’s son Joe demonstrating against eviction of squatters from Tolmers Village, 1975

I first got involved in community action through Leeds Civic Trust at a time of rolling slum clearance that was intended to be never-ending, so that, over time, the entire city would be ‘renewed’. As one would have predicted, this programme was to start with demolition of the ‘back-to-backs’ in viable working-class districts. Our successful opposition, with guidance from Robert McKie, actually had a direct impact on government policy, for it helped launch the General Improvement Area. This was on the cusp of the swing from demolition to conservation, and, some years apart, in two different Leeds neighbourhoods I lived in, I filled the (entirely self appointed) role of community planner. Both are now well established Conservation Areas, though of course their various problems didn’t end there.     

I should say that for several years (through the good offices of Howard Liddell) I got huge stimulus from Hull School of Architecture in its seminal years under Michael Lloyd’s leadership, and the AA workbase system he introduced there. After that it was downhill all the way for me as I taught for a number of years at Leeds Polytechnic headed by Patrick Nuttgens, a very disheartening experience in every way, though I did manage to launch quite a few of my students into careers in housing.  

Back in those years the ‘enemy’ were unenlightened and quite possibly corrupt city councillors and their planners. Now the enemy or enemies are more diffuse and alarming; but it’s wonderful to know that all that work and struggle are not relegated to a museum of good ideas, but are still being carried forward by you and Joe in your respective ways, and I hope by others. Your energy is needed more than ever now, and long may you flourish!

Artist's studio in the basement of 142 Drummond Street, 1976
Joe Ravetz in his squatted artist’s studio in Drummond Street. 

Postscript

From an email, 23 April 2022

Being present at the launch zoom (of this website) felt a bit like being a ghost at the feast for me. I did have my hand up for a long time but wasn’t called on – I wanted to tell my own little experience of sleeping on the floor in the dark in Joe’s Tolmers house (but a lot of the floor was missing) hearing (IRA) bombs going off and thinking I was back in the raids of the V1s and V2s in the ‘forties, when we also slept on floors in the dark in north London. In the end I reflected that a series of younger generations has taken over now, and they reflect on and interpret things in their own way.

Stories

Squatting law expert

By David Watkinson

As told to Patrick Allen

In 1975 I was asked by Patrick Allen of Offenbach & Co Solicitors to advise the Tolmers Square squatters who were threatened with eviction by Stock Conversion. I was a barrister and had been called to the bar in 1972, so at the time I had just three years experience in practice. I was a member of the ground breaking Bowden Street Chambers, Lambeth, the first chambers to be set up in a local area outside of the Inns of Court and the first chambers where members agreed to share their fees with each other.  

Housing law was always part of my practice and eventually became the sole focus of my work from the 1980s. But in 1975 I had quite a broad practice which included employment tribunals, personal injury work and criminal jury trials. I got into squatting law because the court rules governing the procedure for eviction of squatters – Order 113 of the High Court rules and Order 26 of the County Court rules – came into force when I was doing the bar finals course and I became familiar with them.

At that time I had got to know people involved in campaigning on homelessness issues. I acted as a “McKenzie  friend” for some of them who were squatting in Islington and Camden during the court hearings when the property owners were applying for eviction (McKenzie v M was the name of a case in which the Court of Appeal had decided that a litigant who was not represented by a solicitor or barrister was entitled to have someone with him/her to act as his/her note-taker and adviser). One of those involved was Sid Rawle, who was prominent in the squatting and counter culture movement.

So I was involved in squatting cases before I became qualified to represent clients in court (which happens after six months training or “pupillage” with a practising barrister who, in my case, was Lord Anthony (Tony) Gifford, the radical peer who became head of Bowden Street, later Wellington Street, Chambers). When I qualified, people remembered me and asked their solicitors to send me instructions on squatting cases.

Patrick Allen says that I came to a meeting with the Tolmers squatters one Saturday in Tolmers Square wearing a green army great coat. This is very likely although I don’t now  remember this meeting! It  was always my practice to visit the property which was the subject of cases and I lived not far away from Tolmers Square.  I remember fondly the greatcoat which I had bought at Lawrence Corner, the army surplus shop on the corner of Drummond Street and Hampstead Road and a few yards away from Tolmers Square. It was very heavy and its buttons still shone. 

In law, squatters are trespassers and therefore they have no right to be in occupation of the property concerned. But in order to obtain an eviction (possession) order, the landowner had to comply with Court procedure. So in the Tolmers case I advised that we attack the possession summonses on the grounds of procedural deficiencies and failure to comply with Order 113. And Patrick prepared many affidavits from squatters containing evidence of non-compliance which were submitted to the court.

There is a certain irony here as O113/026 were themselves introduced to make it easier for landowners to evict because of problems with the previous procedure.

At the time it was a requirement of those rules that the claimant/landowner (at that time described as the Plaintiff) take ‘reasonable steps’ to identify the occupiers of the property, if unknown, and to file affidavit evidence on what had been done. Judges spoke of O113/026  as a ‘very special procedure’ which must be ‘strictly’ complied with (Re No.9 Open Road 1971 1ALLER 944 Pennycuick V–C). On this we built the whole edifice of the ‘reasonable steps’ defence.

David (in white shirt) striding along the pavement outside the High Court in the Strand liaising with his clents. More photos of the demonstration here.


I remember the Tolmers day in court very well. Patrick, Nick Wates and I were sat on the left hand side of the court. On the right hand side were what seemed like about 25 people associated with Stock Conversion – a QC or leading barrister, junior counsel, solicitors, assistants and many others. 

Incidentally there is another irony here. The leading barrister for the Plaintiff had himself acted for squatters a few years earlier in the case of McPhail v Persons Unknown  (1973 Ch 447) (in which despite his arguments, the Court of Appeal had held that the Forcible Entry Act 1381 did not protect squatters from eviction).

At an early stage Counsel for the Plaintiffs objected to Nick Wates sitting with us on the grounds that he was a squatter himself in the contested properties. And indeed he was and he was the Co-ordinator of the Tolmers Village Association which was leading the fight against Stock Conversion. However, he was sitting with the lawyers in court to assist me in his capacity as a clerk employed by Offenbachs, my solicitors. I pointed that out to the judge and added for good measure “My learned friend has a whole army of people to assist him, while I have only my solicitor and a clerk”. The judge allowed Nick to remain in court. 

We spent all day contesting the summonses. We lost the first two cases quite quickly but then we had a longer run on the case involving 217 North Gower Street. The enquiry agent for the Plaintiff told the judge how he had called round to the house to see who was in occupation but no one answered the door despite loud knocking. Two witnesses from the house, Michael Fitzpatrick, a medical student and Joanna Rose-Innis, a music student from the Royal Academy gave evidence that they had been in at the time and no one had called.

Then we had to go outside to await the judgement of Mr Justice Croom-Johnson. After an anxious 30 minutes we were recalled to the courtroom by the usher. The judge gave judgement and dismissed the case with an order for costs in our favour for failure to comply with the ‘reasonable steps’ requirement of Order 113. I can remember rushing out of the court room to give the news to the others waiting for their cases to be heard and the cheers going up as they realised we had won. In his book (‘The Battle for Tolmers Square’,  RKP, 1976, pp 180-183) Nick says I described the whole case as my “victory of the year”. I’m sure I did. It was a great feeling.

This doomed the Plaintiff’s plan to get all their possession orders by the end of that day. [Patrick adds: There was only one day set aside for the hearings at that stage so all the other cases were adjourned and not long after this Camden Council, led by Frank Dobson did the deal with Stock Conversion to buy them out and take over the development. And after that Camden took four years to get the development organised and in the meantime the squatters  were left in peace.]

And yet another irony. A few months later the reasonable steps defence was swept away. In Burston Finance v Wilkins ( “The Times” 16th July 1975), a Chancery Judge said taking  reasonable steps was about identifying the occupiers so that they could be informed about the proceedings and come along and make a defence if they had one. So if they’ve actually turned up and put up a defence then you don’t need to go any further to identify them! That doomed the reasonable steps defence. So we were very lucky with the timing of the Tolmers cases.

We used other defences, for example that the facts amounted to a licence or permission to occupy even if the landowner at the time had not realised or intended to grant a licence (the issue being whether the effect of what had been done or said meant that permission had been granted despite the intention).

Obtaining title to the land by “adverse” possession started to become a defence for those who had been in possession for 12 years or more but the Land Registration Act 2002 made this much more difficult. A book could be written (and has been, not by me) on this topic. 

This was the pattern of squatting defences. One thought of an argument, ran it for a while until it was torpedoed and then developed something else.

The Chambers at Bowden Street came to an end in 1976 and most of us then moved to new offices in Wellington Street, Covent Garden. Then, in 1988, Wellington Street Chambers disbanded. I moved to Garden Court Chambers with some of the others where I remained, becoming Head of that Chambers for a while until I retired at the end of  2012.

When my legal career started, I had been part of the opposition to the Law Commission’s proposals for criminalising trespass on land (in 1973) and, shortly after I retired in 2012,  section 144 of the Legal Aid, Sentencing and Punishment of Offenders Act 2012 made squatting in residential property a criminal offence for the first time, although  not for commercial premises. 

I had played a leading role in the Campaign Against a Criminal Trespass Law (CACTL) and in subsequent such campaigns which held the line for a remarkably long time but ultimately failed. Criminalisation of activities associated with occupation of land is now being extended to gypsies, travellers and demonstrators by the Police, Crime, Sentencing and Courts Bill 2021.

It is difficult to overturn a law once it has been passed. New governments always seem to have other priorities than to repeal existing legislation. For example there is still no programme to reverse the damaging restrictions on the scope of legal aid (by the 2012 Act) and there has been no rise in legal aid remuneration since 1996. In my view, the government relies on the goodwill of the people involved not to abandon their clients. It’s the same with the NHS – they rely on the goodwill of doctors and nurses to carry on looking after patients despite poor pay and conditions. 

The Tolmers banquet 

I remember the Tolmers Christmas banquet which took place around Christmas time. My partner, Suzanne Tarlin and I are wearing party hats in the photographs. It was very crowded and cheerful, I can’t remember other details but it was 46 years ago….

David at a banquet in Tolmers Village in 1975

After my retirement from the bar, I did a couple of history courses, one on the English Civil War, the other on the Byzantine Empire. I have become an habitué of the British Museum often going to events or exhibitions several times a week .

Then I started learning Ancient Greek in 2013 so I could read Homer in the original  (as I have been doing). I continued with Tai Chi which I started practising in 2006. And, having qualified as a mediator in 2008, I conduct mediations to help parties settle disputes without going to court.

Recently I have become  a member of the housing law group of the Society of Labour Lawyers. We have produced a Labour “Plan for Housing Law  Reform which went round the last Labour Party c\Conference  (2021) and we have presented it to the front bench  shadow housing  ministers Lucy Powell and her successor Matthew Pennycook. 

I have no regrets about giving up practice. 40 years was sufficient and there were other things (as above) I wanted to get on with. 

Also if I had not retired I might not have survived much longer. I was diagnosed with a heart condition in 2014, having been suffering from symptoms of breathlessness and two episodes of near fainting for sometime beforehand. Essentially my aortic valve through which the heart pumps blood to the rest of the body, was closing up. It turned out that this was a chronic condition which had been developing for many years and nothing to do with ‘lifestyle’. So that resulted in open-heart surgery and the insertion of a pig’s aortic valve which was successful. It was diagnosed four days before Suzanne and I were due to fly off to Ethiopia so who knows what might have happened…

Stories

Academic leg up

By Tim Wilson

As told to Patrick Allen

Tim Wilson on a demonstration, c1975

I came to live in Tolmers Square through Vince (Vincent Hetreed). We had become friends at Corpus Christi College, Oxford where I studied Classics and English, graduating in 1973. I then spent a year in Italy and, following this, enrolled on a postgraduate course at the Warburg Institute called grandly Combined Historical Studies in the Renaissance. Professor Ernst Gombrich was the Institute Director. In his welcoming address to us he said ‘if you want to become art historians leave now and go to the Courtauld: we do cultural and intellectual history here, not art history’.

I was interested in industrial archaeology and spent time wandering around Docklands with a camera watching warehouses being pulled down and taking a lot of photographs to record the process. I recall seeing a toilet in (I think) the East India Docks bearing a chalked sign ‘whites only’, but I cannot find a photograph so perhaps did not have a camera with me at that time.  

Vince had opened up the semi-industrial second floor on the south side of Tolmers Square. Four houses (nos 19, 20, 21, 22) had been converted to horizontal use as offices or light industrial and were now empty. 

Vince was deemed to be in charge of the space and was very happy for me to occupy a room. It was extremely convenient for the Warburg which was a short stroll away across the Euston Road. After ascending the stairs of No 19 to the second floor, one turned right into a kitchen, then a large room which was Vince’s, then a suite of 3 or 4 ‘rooms’, separated by a series of large orange sheets. I had the first of these. It had windows looking out onto Tolmers Square. I became a fixture for 2 years, as others came and went. For much of the time I lived with Christine Burden (now Hall), who later had an eminent career at the British Library.

Tim’s study on the south side of Tolmers Square

We had electricity and running water. There weren’t great collective meals at number 19 but Vince and I mostly ate together.

Seeking the legal and moral high ground I attempted to pay some rates to Camden Council which ended disastrously. I sent them a cheque; more than a year later, long after I had left the Square, I was arrested for non-payment of rates on the whole building of four houses. I needed legal help to get me out of trouble and a jail sentence for not paying. 

In 1975, when Joe Levy served eviction notices on 27 houses, I attended meetings about dealing with the press but was not comfortable with the approach and pulled back from activism. We had the International Socialists and the International Marxist Group amongst us vying for position. I was not directly threatened with eviction and did not need to attend court, but I did appear in the group campaign photograph.

Campaign photo, 1975. Tim is in the centre of the back row.

The course at the Warburg started in the autumn of 1974 and ran for 2 years. I then went on to an MA in Museum Studies with English Local History at Leicester University but visited London and Christine regularly. 

I then moved to Greenwich where I took a job at the National Maritime Museum. I bought a house there. I moved on to the British Museum where, over ten years, I became a specialist in the ”lesser arts” of the European Renaissance – small sculpture, metalwork, ceramics, enamels, glass… In 1987 the Museum hosted my exhibition `Ceramic Art of the Italian Renaissance’.

I moved to Oxford in 1990 as Keeper of Western Art at the Ashmolean Museum and I and my family (wife Jane, children Alastair, Julia, David) have been based here ever since. I was a fellow of Balliol College and Professor of the Arts of the Renaissance. I made many visits to Italy and I write interminable books on Renaissance pottery (see Tim’s website). Though now retired from the Ashmolean I keep on with my work and have done two recent exhibitions and others in Vienna and Urbino are (as of March 2022) about to open. These days I concentrate on French and Italian Renaissance ceramics.

Memorable Tolmers moments:

I remember Rastafarians coming round selling sausages which were stained blue – was this because they were designated as dog food? We ate them without ill effects.

It is me in the photograph sitting on a chair in the square surrounded by self sown yellow flowers, reading a book in the sunshine.

Tim reading a book in the middle of Tolmers Square. He lived on the second floor of the building behind

Vince brought two high class call girls for supper which was typical Vince. However there was no free service at the end of the dinner.

Nick Wates asked me to write the history chapter for his book ‘The Battle for Tolmers Square’. I was pleased when Simon Jenkins in his review called it ‘the excellent historic chapter of this book’. (See Tim’s local history chapter here). My research was done at Swiss Cottage library. I did not do doorstep history talking to tenants and recording their stories with a tape recorder which I now regret. 

Did Tolmers change my life?

I changed from being a straightforward academic and amateur lefty to being someone who believed that the skills I had could be put at the service of urban communities. If the London dockland museum project had been carried out by the National Maritime Museum, I would have had a big role in that; but in fact the Museum of Docklands in the West India Docks was carried through, brilliantly, by Chris Elmers of the Museum of London. 

But I still managed to be involved in community action. In Oxford I became chair of a group trying to restore the canal basin which Lord Nuffield built over. So far we haven’t succeeded. It is currently a car park.

Living in Tolmers was a big leg up – to live for over two years rent free with a grant for my studies at the Warburg made a huge difference.

History

A little local history

By Tim Wilson

First published as an appendix in The Battle for Tolmers Square, Nick Wates, RKP, 1976

The Tolmers Square Development Area lies in what were the grounds of the large old manor of Tottenhall, or Tottenham Court, in the Parish of St Pancras. Until the end of the eighteenth century the whole area was rural: a newspaper of about 1761 described it as ‘a pleasant village situated between St. Giles and Hampstead’. Development came with the great expansion of London, in the second half of the eighteenth century.

The Manor of Tottenhall

At the time of the Doomsday Book, the manor of Tottenhall was the property of the Canons of St Paul’s Cathedral. The land of the manor covered five ‘hides’ – that is, about 600 acres – and was valued at £4 a year. It was recorded that eight men were living on the land to work it, the whole population of St Pancras in the eleventh century being probably under 300. (At the end of the nineteenth century it was just under a quarter of a million.)

Under the Tudors and early Stuarts the land was leased to the Crown and occupied by royal servants. In 1649, at the establishment of the Common- wealth, the leasehold of the manor, together with other Crown land, was expropriated, and bought by a Londoner called Ralph Harrison for £3,318 3s. 11d. In 1660, at the Restoration of Charles II, it reverted to the Crown and a few years later was made over to the young Isabella Bennet, who also inherited from her father, the King’s favourite the Earl of Arlington, the family seat of Euston in Suffolk. She was married in 1672, when both were still children, to Henry Fitzroy, who was the second son of Charles II and his mistress Barbara Villiers. (The name Fitzroy was often used for the illegitimate children of a King.) On the marriage, Henry was made Earl of Euston, and three years later first Duke of Grafton. Three generations later, the third Duke’s younger brother, Charles Fitzroy (b. 1737), created first Baron Southampton in 1780, inherited the lease on the manor of Tottenhall, while the elder (Grafton) branch of the family inherited the seat at Euston in Suffolk, which they hold to this day.

The Fitzroy Estate (the old manor of Tottenhall) and the other great estates at the end of the eighteenth century (Source: London Street Names by Gillian Bebbington).

When inherited by Charles Fitzroy, the manor was still on a lease, periodically renewable, from the Canons of St Paul’s. A remarkable piece of aristocratic sharp practice in 1768 transformed this lease into a freehold. The transaction is described by a writer in the Morning Chronicle in I837:

‘In the year 1768 the Duke of Grafton was Prime Minister. His brother, Mr. Fitzroy, was lessee of the Manor and Lordship of Tattenhall, the property of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul’s, London. Dr. Richard Brown, the then prebendary of the stall of Tattenhall, having pocketed the emolument attending the renewal of the lease, and there being very little chance of any further advantages to him from the estate, readily listened to a proposal of Mr. Fitzroy for the purchase of the estate. The thing was agreed, and the Duke of Grafton, with his great standing majority, quickly passed an act through Parliament, in March 1768, diverting the estate, with all its rights, privileges, and emoluments from the prebend, and conveyed the fee – simple, entire, and without reserve, to Mr. Charles Fitzroy and his heirs for ever. The Act states it to be with the consent of Richard, Lord Bishop of London, and the privity of the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s. (2)

The writer goes on to deplore the irresponsibility of the churchmen’s alienation of the enormously valuable freehold in return for a relatively paltry payment of £300 a year. Much of the estate, including most of the Tolmers area, stayed in the hands of the Southampton family until this century. By 1900 the estate had been built over from end to end.

The origin of the name Tottenhall is unclear: it is perhaps derived from a Saxon owner called Totta. The original form Totehele, or Tottenhele, was later corrupted into Tottenhall. and eventually to Tottenham Court. A writer in 1748 noted a tradition that: ‘The elegant village of Tottenham Court belonged to Edward IV. There he kept his beloved Jane Shore.’ (3) It is said that the name ‘Court’ derives from this supposed royal connection.

The extent of the manor varied at different times during its history, but consisted basically of a long strip of land along the old Hampstead Road, stretching from Kentish Town, Chalk Farm and Primrose Hill in the north, to Fitzroy Square and down Tottenham Court Road almost to the junction with Oxford Street in the south. To the west the estate bordered on the Crown estate (formerly Henry VIII’s Marylebone Park); to the south-east it bordered on the Bedford Estate and its fashionable development in Bloomsbury.

The Manor House

The manor house itself stood to the east of Hampstead Road, between the present sites of Tolmers Square and Euston Road. The position is marked on a plan made by William Necton on 6 April 1591, when the manor was in the hands of the Crown. Necton added a memorandum with some remarks on the building, which was then occupied by Daniel Clarke, Master Cook to Queen Elizabeth. He calls it ‘a very slender building of timber and brick’, which ‘hath been of a larger building than now it is. For some little parte hath been pulled down of late to amend some part of the houses now standing.’ (4) The surveyor also noted that part of the building was ‘very greatly decaied’. From another survey (of 1649) we learn that the house and gardens were ‘moated round’.

Tottenhall, 1743.

This is a water-colour of the house from the Heal Collection made in 1801. The painting is captioned as a copy of a painting of the house done in 1743; and the Elizabethan building was pulled down at about this time. The older (fifteenth-century?) building shown to the left of the Elizabethan block is what was known as ‘King John’s Palace’, though there is no evidence of any actual connection with King John: it was pulled down in 1808. The site of the manor house is now (1976) ingloriously covered by a temporary car park.

King John’s Palace

Wine, Wenching and Wickedness

While these buildings were still standing, Tottenham Court, as it had come to be generally known by the seventeenth century, became a favourite place of excursion for Londoners. George Wither in 1628 wrote:

And Hogsdone, Islington and Tothnam-Court, For cakes and creame had then no small resort. (5)

The name was well enough known for Ben Jonson in 1633 to characterise a country squire in his play A Tale of a Tub as ‘Squire Tub of Totten-Court’. In 1645 ‘Mrs. Stacey’s maid’ and two others were fined one shilling apiece for the enormity of drinking on the Sabbath day at Tottenham Court. (6)

The best evidence for the character and reputation of the place in the seventeenth century is to be found in a play by Thomas Nabbs, called Totenham-Court, a pleasant comedy, published in 1639. Here Tottenham Court seems to be more than anything else a good place for a cheerful dirty weekend. One character says: ‘A maid at your years, and so near London! . . . The park here hath fine conveniences: or Totenham-Court’s close by: ‘tis suspected that fine Citie ladies give away fine things to Court Lords for a country banquet.’ And a little later: ‘A wench is grown a necessary appendix to two pots at Totenham-Court.’ A few pages later we hear of an elopement, and someone comments: ‘The parson of Pancras hath been here.’ The answer is: ‘Indeed I have heard that he is a notable governor. And Totenham-Court pays him store of tithe. It causeth questionless much unlawful coupling.’

On either side of the Hampstead Road, south of the turnpike on the road north, were two celebrated pubs, the Adam and Eve on the west (first mentioned in 1718, but possibly a good deal older), and the King’s Head on the east. The Adam and Eve was particularly famous for its tea gardens and the boxing matches that took place there, as well as for its cakes and ale. Both pubs are shown in Hogarth’s engraving below.

Representation by Hogarth of the march of the guards towards Scotland in the year 1743 with the Adam 7 Eve pub (left) and Kings Head pub (right)

This century both pubs have been the victims of road-widening schemes – the King’s Head in an LCC scheme in 1906, the Adam and Eve in the Euston Centre scheme. In the 1930s the Adam and Eve was said to have the best beer and the cheapest girls in the West End – so the great tradition lived on.

To the south-west of the present road junction, near where Warren Street is now, were the grounds of the Tottenham Court Fair, famous for its boxing matches and theatrical booths, as well as for the chaos it generated every summer, to the great distress of respectable citizens. In the eighteenth century, various attempts were made to suppress the fair, but it proved tenacious, and not till the nineteenth century was it finally suppressed. The writer of a manuscript in the Heal Collection dated 1808, describes the fair and its suppression with puritanical sternness:

‘Tottenham Court was a place of resort for the lower orders of society, and their successors even now presume at Easter and Whitsuntide to set order and magistracy at defiance. Information having been given upon oath to his majesty’s Justices of the Peace for the County of Middlesex that several lewd and disorderly persons and players of interludes had erected booths and stalls at Tottenham Court in the County of Middlesex aforesaid, wherein was used a great deal of prophane swearing together with many lewd and blasphemous expressions, as also several rude, riotous and disorderly actions committed; eleven of his Majesty’s Justices, having duly considered the evil tendency of such wicked and abominable practices, for suppressing thereof and for preventing the like for the future, granted a warrant . . . for the apprehension of several of the persons concerned in the management of the said interludes, which hath since been put into execution, and the same have been suppressed accordingly and the said booths and stalls pulled down and taken away.’

A smock race at Tottenham Court Fair

The New Road

In 1756, the first London bypass road, the ‘New Road from Paddington to Islington’, now the Marylebone, Euston and Pentonville Roads, was built. It crossed the Hampstead Road a little to the south-west of the cluster of buildings that was Tottenham Court. This grandiose new project was sponsored by the Duke of Grafton, and opposed by the Duke of Bedford on the grounds that it would spoil the view from his house and create dust. It seems that the Duke of Grafton was the first to travel on what is now the Euston Road, and, moreover, on a Sunday. One account described the Duke as ‘accompanied by a great company as little sensible of religion as himself’, and another commented that ‘he and his jovial crew on horse back’ passed along as if in triumph over every thing sacred. (7)

The Southampton Estate development

The building of the New Road (so called until 1857) speeded up the development of the area by the Southampton family. The part of the estate to the west of Tottenham Court Road was the first to be developed, in the last years of the eighteenth century (Fitzroy Square was begun by the Adam brothers c. 1793). In the same period was built Southampton Place, a row of elegant houses fronting the north side of the New Road a little to the east of where North Gower Street now is; these houses lasted until the Second World War, remaining socially a cut above the streets to the north. By the turn of the century, new terraces were going up at speed to the west of the Hampstead Road, and soon afterwards the main terraces in our area were built – George Street (now North Gower Street) and Euston Square in about 1810, the smaller houses in Drummond Street and the other streets in the years immediately following. Most of these streets, like other streets on the estate, got their names from members of the Southampton family and families they intermarried with. (8)

The system on which the Southampton Estate, like most of the great London estates, was built over was one that enabled the landowners to develop their land at no financial risk to themselves and with the certainty of a substantial profit only in the very long term.(9) The land to be developed would be divided up into building plots and leased to a contractor, or directly to a builder, for a long period of time – usually 99 years – at a low ground rent, say £5 a year for each house. The builder or contractor built the houses at his own expense, and then normally tried to make his profit by selling the lease. It was a perilous business for the builder, in a flourishing but irregular market; he had to sink a lot of capital into building the houses and took all the risk. At least one of the builders who took a building lease from the Southampton family – a certain George Brown, who built several houses at the south end of what is now North Gower Street – ended up in the bankruptcy courts. At the end of the 99-year term, the land and the houses on it reverted to the ground landlord, who might then renew the lease (at a much higher rent) or else redevelop the now urbanised land to make a further profit. What tended to happen in poorer districts was that towards the end of the original lease term, the houses would degenerate as the tenants ceased to have much interest in spending money to maintain them. This may have happened on the Southampton Estate in the early years of this century. (10)

The streets in the area were built up on this system between 1800 and 1830, and were probably intended for middle-class people – George Street and Euston Square certainly so. But the houses never had the social status of the exclusive Bedford Estate to the south-east: revealingly, among the first tenants of Drummond Street were two coal merchants. The original leases stipulated that the tenants were:

‘not to follow the trade or business of a brewer, bagnio keeper, distiller, pipeburner, melting tallow chandler, working hatter, baker, sugar baker, butcher, poulterer, fishmonger, fruiterer, herb-seller, vintner, victualler, coffee house keeper, dyer, brazier, pewterer, smith, farrier or any other offensive or obnoxious trade . . . on or upon the said demised premises’.

This looks like an attempt to establish for the new houses a similar kind of social exclusiveness to that enjoyed by the nearby Bedford Estate (which had gates at the northern entrances to keep out undesirables and tradesmen); but it never worked and apparently no serious attempt was made to enforce these regulations.

1746 – from Roque’s map of London
1790 – from un-named map of St Pancras
1834 – from Davies’ map of St Pancras
1880 – from Ordnance survey
1954 – from Ordnance survey

Social decline

Such gentility as there may once have been, vanished in the social decline that hit all the housing north of the New Road in the middle of the nineteenth century. The decisive factor was the coming of the railways: first, Euston Station (London and Birmingham Railway, 1836), then a little later, King’s Cross (Great Northern, 1851-2), and finally St Pancras (Midland Railway, 1868 –74). The great stations made the areas close to them less salubrious, created a need for housing for the large numbers of men employed in the railways, and above all displaced thousands of people from their homes in the path of the stations and the lines leading into them. St Pancras alone made thousands of people homeless, virtually wiping out the densely populated Agar Town area.

By the end of the century it is estimated that over 100,000 people had been uprooted from their homes by the coming of the railways. . . Modern Londoners, accustomed to the exhaustive compensation and re-housing provisions of publicly controlled comprehensive redevelopment, would find it hard to imagine the impact the railway boom of the 1860’s had on the social and physical environment of the city. It was not only Dickens and his ‘smoke, and crowded gables, and distorted chimneys, and deformity of brick and mortar pinning up deformity of mind and body.’ It was also the migration within the city of a population itself the size of a small city, a population uncontrolled, at the mercy of the laws of the free market and for the most part poverty-stricken in the extreme. . . . Railway building in London simply crowded neighbouring slum properties even more densely and forced up their rents.(11)

Such feeble statutory provision as there was for re-housing of tenants displaced was easily and regularly evaded.

Thus between, and to the west of, the stations a belt of poor and overcrowded housing grew up along the north of the New Road, stretching from King’s Cross almost as far as Regent’s Park. Tolmers Square was towards the west end of this belt. To the north and west, approaching the luxury housing of Regent’s Park, conditions were rather better. To the east was Somers Town, one of the most notorious slum areas of Victorian London. The present isolation of Tolmers Village is a modern phenomenon resulting from the destruction of all the surrounding housing (p. 18).

Tolmers Square

The history of the Tolmers Square site is rather different from that of the surrounding streets. (12) One story says that there was a burial pit on the site at the time of the Great Plague, but there is no real evidence to support this story. In 1802 the New River Company, a company which worked an artificial waterway from Hertfordshire to the New River Head in Islington, took a lease on the land and converted it into a reservoir for the supply of water to west London.(13) In the 1830s an Artesian well was sunk on the site: the appearance of this was a large grass-covered mound.

In the 1840s a complex of public baths and wash-houses for the poor was built on the north-east corner of the site, served by water from the reservoir. A writer in a contemporary newspaper was enthusiastic:

Pent up by their occupations in the midst of London, a large proportion of its vast population can only on rare occasions find time to go to the necessary distance to obtain the advantage of a bath and the comfort of a clean skin: and when they do so they find the greatest impediments in their way. They are now prohibited from bathing in the Thames. The Lea and Serpentine Rivers are only open to them at particular hours. The comfort of a warm bath is placed out of their reach by its costliness, and to procure a warm bath at home, which is never thought of except when disease make it necessary, is almost an impossibility. Under these circumstances it is not surprising that they scarcely ever indulge in a practice so essential as bathing to the health and to the full enjoyment of life. . . . The corporations of Liverpool have lately built baths and wash-houses for their poor. . . . It is proposed to carry out in London on an extensive scale the plans of which the success and usefulness have thus been confirmed. . . . (The first of these model establishments has just been completed in St Pancras. In that populous district the Society for Establishing Baths and Wash-houses for the Labouring Classes has been enabled by the liberality of the directors of the New River Company to procure at a nominal rent an excellent site for their establishment on a portion of vacant ground at the base of the reservoir in the Hampstead Road. We have visited the baths and wash-houses and have pleasure in bearing witness to the excellency of the arrangements. (14)

However, in spite of the worthy efforts of the Society for Establishing Baths and Wash-houses for the Labouring Classes, it seems that the Labouring Classes were not altogether eager to take advantage of the excellent arrangements offered to them. In 1859 the wash-houses were closed. A little later the mound above the reservoir was levelled and the earth was carted to Regent’s Park.

The houses in the Square were built by a builder called William Sawyer between 1861 and 1864 (See David Gedye story) . Simultaneously the Tolmers Square Congregational Church was built in the middle of the Square; this was a Gothic edifice designed by John Tarring (an architect known as ‘the Gilbert Scott of the Nonconformists’ from the large number of Nonconformist Gothic churches he built in London). The church, which had a spire at the west end some 120 feet high, was highly praised by the contemporary press: one newspaper described it as in a style ‘somewhat after that of the House of Commons’. The name ‘Tolmers’ was taken from a small village in Hertfordshire, near the source of the New River.

It is fairly clear from the architecture that the houses in the Square were intended to be rather more ‘genteel’ than the streets to the east: in fact it is said that originally there were gates at the entrance on the east side to the scruffier Drummond and Euston streets, the main entrance being from the rather more affluent Hampstead Road. But this did not really achieve its intended effect of isolating the Square from the poorer housing to the east, and within a few years of being built, though some ‘posh-ish’ people did live there the tall houses in the square had mostly degenerated into multi-occupation and overcrowding nearly as bad as the rest of the area. In the 1871 census almost all the houses are in multi-occupation and there are 364 people recorded as living in the 28 houses.

Tolmers Square church, 1903.

Tolmers at the end of the nineteenth century

Charles Booth at the turn of the nineteenth century wrote of the church that it

‘finds it something of a struggle to exist in so unpropitious a neighbour-hood’.(15) The area attracted a variety of charitable institutions, such as a large-scale soup kitchen in the Euston Road, a Salvation Army post in Tolmers Square and a Baptist Mission in Drummond Street. The most notable of these was the Tolmers Square Institute, an appendage of the church built in 1877 for meetings and good works. A contemporary press cutting gives some idea of the character of the area at the time in a way that was probably only a little melodramatic;

‘Thousands of young men and women are living in the large houses of business very near to Tolmers Square Institution, also thousands of men employed on the Midland, London and North Western, North London and Metropolitan Railway live about here, and it is to gather such and influence them for good that the Tolmers Square Institute, People’s Cafe and schools have been erected. . . . The scene of the Euston Square murder is within a few minutes of the Institute, and recently, within a few yards, a man hacked his wife to death with a hatchet. More than one child has been found dead within the railings of the church, one with its throat cut. Wickedness abounds, and Tolmers Square Institute has been built to try and stem this torrent of iniquity.’ (16)

Tolmers Square Institute, Drummond Street, c. 1879.

At the end of the last century the area was certainly rough, increasingly so towards the east. In Booth’s general survey of north-west London he wrote:

By far the worst area of poverty is that between St. Pancras Station and the Hampstead Road, extending in places to Albany St. Any improvement here is due to displacement by railway extensions. The people are low rough labourers mixed with costers and prostitutes. . . . The missions have maintained a stream of charity, and the railways, with the growth of the great furnishing shops in Tottenham Court Road, have helped to provide work. Thus supported, and clinging to their accustomed surroundings, the people have crowded every house within reach, and filled from cellar to roof whatever new buildings have been provided. The result has been to raise site values, and of late there has been little or no fresh building. Extravagant claims are made by the owners of slum property, and every scheme of improvement hampered. Crowding is chronic, and the instances of excessive overcrowding that have come to light are appalling. (17)

Of the overcrowding we have statistics: in the streets comprising what is now the Tolmers Square development area, according to the census of 1871, were living some 5,200 people. (Compare with this a population of about 600 in 1971.)

Not all streets were equally bad; Booth gives the following breakdown: 

Well to do: Hampstead Road, Southampton Row (Euston Road), Euston Square. Fairly comfortable: George Street, Euston Buildings.

Poverty and comfort mixed: Tolmers Square, parts of Euston Street, Drummond Street.

Moderate poverty: Exmouth Street, Coburg Street, and various sites tucked in behind the main streets.

Lowest class: Little Exmouth Street, Little George Street.

This is in fact a rather better picture than some of the other evidence might lead us to expect. It seems that some quite well-off people continued to live in the area, which was never socially completely homogeneous. In some of the houses in George Street and to the west the 1871 census notes the presence of servants. This photo of Tolmers Square, taken in 1903, certainly does not seem to show a slum.

To sum up, we may describe the social composition of the area as predominantly rather poor but with a scattering of more prosperous families towards the west. People who grew up in the area early this century certainly remember a sharp contrast between the ‘posh end’ and the ‘rough end’.

The main sources of employment at the end of the century were the railways (including the Metropolitan line, built along the line of the Euston Road in the early 1860s), the furniture shops in Tottenham Court Road, and the rag trade: a very high proportion of the women in the 1871 census described themselves as seamstresses – though considering Booth’s remark about prostitutes that may have been something of a euphemism in many cases. As well as these major employers there were a lot of small businesses and craftsmen flourishing in the area –  bookbinders, jewellers and so on.

8-18 Hampstead Road, 1906.

The Orange Tree pub at the corner of North Gower Street and Euston Road. Demolished in the 1960s for road widening.
Looking north up the Hampstead Road from the junction with Euston Road, c. 1903.

The twentieth century

In most respects the history of the area this century is one of a slow disintegration, accelerating around the time of the Second World War and afterwards. The land passed out of the hands of the Earls of Southampton and the New River Company and into those of a variety of landlords, big and small, more or less anonymous. Some of the worst streets – Little George Street and Little Exmouth Street – were cleared for an LCC school. Extensions to Euston Station wiped out others. Everywhere the population slowly declined as commercialisation spread into what were formerly residential areas. The housing stock was further reduced by Second World War German bombing.

In Tolmers Square, half of the south side was taken over by a pharmaceutical company and converted to factory and warehouse use. The church finally gave up the struggle to exist and closed just after the First World War. The building was converted into a popular and lively, but not at all elegant, cinema (1923), which lasted until 1972, when it was bought by Stock Conversion and closed. (Local legend has it that the church had to be deconsecrated after the minister of the church hanged himself over the altar. This would explain the famous ghost of the cinema. Two of the staff claimed to have seen a bright light appear at four in the morning behind the screen where the old altar used to be. The light moved up the aisle to the foyer and disappeared. As a result of this the night watchman used to go for a cup of tea at Euston Station at this time. The spire was pulled down at the end of the 1920s and the trees which used to surround the church disappeared. All this finally put paid to the Square’s pretensions to gentility.

Physically, the area continued to evolve in a piecemeal fashion. Buildings  were converted for new uses, extensions were added, and backyards filled in to cater for increasing numbers of commercial and small industrial firms. Several new buildings were erected where old ones failed to cater for new needs, or to fill in bomb sites. Most of the new units were for commercial purposes: architectural studios, a TGWU headquarters, a London Transport generating plant, company offices. The only new housing built this century was the Cecil Residential Club, a charitable hostel for girls. This building, designed by Maxwell Fry in the late 1930s, actually won an RIBA architectural award. (18)

From about 1920 onwards, many of the long-established residents started to move out to more spacious parts of London. They were replaced by immigrants of many nationalities. It seems to have been an area where newcomers to London would come and live for a few years, then, as they became established, they would move out to (literally) greener pastures. After the Second World War there was a strong Greek and Cypriot population, then from about 1950 some Asians began to move in, transforming Drummond Street with their grocery shops and restaurants into a colourful and lively commercial street.

Socially there were tensions and divisions. In general the western end was the ‘posh end’, as opposed to the east (by the station, and towards Somers Town). In addition, there were several owner-occupiers, in North Gower Street in particular, struggling to maintain a ‘respectable’ existence in a declining area. There were divisions between the nationalities, and between tenants and owner-occupiers. Between the wars, children from the south side of Tolmers Square (where there were owner-occupied houses) were forbidden to go to the houses on the north side, where the people were mostly tenants. A woman who grew up in Tolmers Square remembers as a child being so ashamed of her address that she would tell people she lived in North Gower Street. People who are asked to give their memories of what the area was like in the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s tend to come back to the same themes: it was a rough area with regular fights which the local children would stand round and watch; it was full of alcoholics, prostitutes, and gambling clubs – an atmosphere like that of the areas round other major stations; conditions were often squalid and the people generally poor. By the mid-1930s the buildings were already falling into disrepair, and little was spent on their upkeep. On the other hand, especially for people who lived there between the wars, it was a ‘place with atmosphere’, a place full of colour and variety: ‘Railway, shops. Market. Self-employed. You name the trade or service and you would find it in this area.’ And when people are asked how it has changed, there is one metaphor that keeps recurring. In the words of the policeman whose beat it was in the 1960s, ‘the area sort of died’. Whatever else the 1970s have done to Tolmers, they have brought it back to life.

Notes

(1) There is not much original research in this account, although the history of the manor of Tottenhall has never been thoroughly treated. The indispensable sources are the relevant volumes of the London County Council Survey of London, the Heal Collection of manuscripts and documents in Swiss Cottage Library, and the records of the manor in the Greater London Record Office. I have not seen the private records of the Southampton family.

(2) Quoted from W. Howitt, The Northern Heights of London (London, 1869). On the transaction see also Commons Journals, vol. 31, 1766-68 (1803), pp. 639, 647, 655, and Survey of London (London, 1900 etc), vol. 19, p.12.

(3) Stukely, manuscript volume of memoirs, quoted from C.H.Denyer (ed), St Pancras through the Centuries (London, 1935), p.24.

(4) Survey of London, vol. 21, p.120.

(5) In his Britains Remembrancer (London 1628), fol. 120 b.

(6) See W. Wroth: The London Pleasure Gardens of the eighteenth Century (London, 1896), pp.77–80.

(7) C. Lee in Camden Journal (Libraries and Arts) April/May 1972.

(8) See G. Bebbington: London Street Names (London, 1972) pp. 132-3. There are articles by John Stansfield on the local streets in Tolmers News, no. 8 and 10. On the Fitzroy/Grafton family see B. Falk, The Royal Fitzroys (London, 1950).

(9) See John Summerson: Georgian London (Harmondsworth, 1962), ch. 3.

(10) Compare Charles Booth, Life and Labour of the People in London (London 1902–3) series III, vol. I, p.189:’When a lease nears its termination no money will be spent that can possibly be avoided, and when it is anticipated that the site will shortly be wanted, coming events cast their shadows before them. It may be for the extension of a business premises such as Maple’s, or for the further enlargement of Euston Station, or by the local authority for widening a street or opening up a slum. But though all in themselves good objects, their shadow is the shadow of death.’

(11) Simon Jenkins: Landlords to London (London, 1975), pp.107–8.

(12) See also Simon Hodgkinson: History of Tolmers Square, unpublished manuscript essay (copy in Swiss Cottage Library).

(13) Information kindly supplied by the archivist of the Metropolitan Water Board, Mr G.C. Berry. See also F. Miller: St. Pancras Past and Present (London, 1874) p.164.

(14) Cutting in the Heal Collection.

(15) Booth: Life and Labour, series III, vol. I, p.185.

(16) Cutting in Heal Collection.

(17) Booth, Life and Labour, Series III, vol.I, pp.195, 187-8.

(18) See N. Pevsner, London II (Buildings of England, Harmondsworth, 1952)

Stories

Turning point

By Suzy Nelson

Suzy (left) outside her first squat in Euston Street,

Like many of the first squatters in Tolmers, I studied architecture at University College London. I first squatted in Euston Street in 1973, later moving to Hampstead Road and then North Gower Street. When I moved to Tolmers, I was in the final year of my degree. It was a turning point in my life. I was wanting to find an alternative way of living and engaging in community politics. I got involved in All London Squatters, which met at the Roebuck in Tottenham Court Road, and I was active in the Campaign Against the Criminal Trespass Law. I was involved in supporting the campaign against the winkling out of tenants by landlords in Islington, and was arrested at a picket of Prebble’s Estate Agent and charged with obstruction. David Watkinson, who subsequently defended the Tolmers Village squatters against eviction orders, was my barrister. After I gave evidence, the magistrate dismissed the charges against me, but the other three defendants didn’t get off. It was for me, as a middle class white woman, a lesson in class politics. 

Roof inspection, Euston Street, 1974
….and up on the roof working out how to stop it leaking)

I think squatting in Tolmers was special, because the squatters were very embedded in the local community, which was under threat from property speculation. We were friendly with shopkeepers and tenants. We found out about the empty flat that I moved into in Hampstead Road from two retired sisters, who lived in the flat above. I remember being a regular at the Lord Palmerston in Hampstead Road, often calling in at the end of an evening for a glass of port, always being sure to find people I knew there.

Heading off
Suzy leaving Tolmers Square with other squatters on a march to the High Court to oppose eviction orders. 

Whilst living in Tolmers, I became involved in Essex Road Women’s Centre and in 1976 moved to a squat in Islington with other women from the Centre and their children, and later came out as a lesbian. After being evicted a few times, we moved into licensed short-life property. (Local authorities had bought up street properties, but in the context of further cutbacks in public expenditure in the late 1970s were unable to fund their renovation. Rather than leave them empty they let them on short term licences). 

After leaving university I worked in a building cooperative. Later I trained and worked as a carpenter. With other women working or wanting to work in non-traditional jobs, I set up Women and Manual Trades. In the late 1970s and early 1980s I worked for Solon Cooperative Housing Services helping licensed short life housing groups with making their properties habitable. After a decade out of university I went back and finished off my education as an architect. I was then involved in setting up a feminist architectural practice, Matrix, and was active in the Feminist Architects’ Network. In the early 1990s in the context of cuts to local government funding, I was made redundant from my job as an architect at Islington Council. I then worked in urban regeneration and studied for a PhD comparing the changing relationship between the public and private sectors in development in London and Paris. I spent the last fifteen years of my working life teaching planning and regeneration. I then retired, but continued to do some research and teaching.

In 2013, I moved with my partner and daughter from London to Lewes in Sussex. I became active in Extinction Rebellion locally and was also involved in the Architects Climate Action Network.

Suzy (centre) at the Stop Brexit demonstration October 2019….
….and on an Extinction Rebellion demonstration in Lewes, 2020.

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